MP3CityGuides Blog

Eating ice cream in Rome is just the best

simon — Sat, 07 Aug 2010 15:14:19 +0000

Part novel and part self help book, Eat, Pray, Love, has enjoyed huge success and now it’s to be made into a film starring Julia Roberts and released in August in the US and September in Europe.
One unintended consequence of this adaptation has been that the locations featured in the book have attracted huge attention. Few more so than the Gelateria di San Crispino, one of the best places to get ice cream in Rome and an essential stop any Rome weekend break. If you’re looking for the best tourist attractions in Rome then this should be on your list.
There’s something about eating ice cream in Italy that is quite unique. Walking around a square or three narrow cobbled streets with an ice cream in hand is just blissful – one of the best experiences possible in a city, as far as I’m concerned. Whenever I go to Rome to update our Rome mp3 tour I always make sure I take the time to get an ice cream.
One of my favourite places to eat whenever I’m doing a Rome audio guide ice cream is Tre Scalini in the Piazza Navona. You can get a cup or a cornet of tartuffo, which is chocolate ice cream and just wonder around this beautiful square, looking at the churches and fountains. The church of St Agnes stands, it’s said on what was once a brothel.
St Agnes probably kept prisoner there was about to be raped by one of the clients when she suddenly became covered in hair which understandably rather put her assailant off the idea. But in the end she didn’t escape and was later beheaded. She is now the patron saint of virgins and what had been for centuries a modest shrine was developed by Borromini into this beautiful church.
Next to it on the left is Palazzo Pamphilj, formerly the home of the great Roman Pamphilj family – which included Pope Innocent X who refurbished the square. The palace is now the Brazilian embassy and the family’s principal home is the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj which is near the Piazza Venezia and is well worth a visit if you’re doing a Rome city break.
At Christmas there are nativity scenes and fairs in the Piazza Navona but the most striking feature are its three fountains. All of them are typically extravagant and decorative and all have water as a theme.

Are the French as civilised as they seem?

simon — Sat, 17 Jul 2010 09:13:48 +0000

Bastille Day passed again this year with plenty of pomp and ceremony and minimal violence. The 14th July celebrates the storming of the Bastille prison, as we explain in our Paris mp3 tour of the sites of revolution (and also romance, since this is Paris) around the city.
The Palais Royal stop on our Paris audio tour,

Paris - civiilised but with a history of violence

on a stiflingly hot day in July 1789 amid the stink of sewage for which eighteenth century Paris was well known, a young political agitator called Camille Désmoulins leapt onto to a table in one of the cafes in what are now the most tranquil and beautiful gardens in Paris, I’d say and delivered an impassioned tirade to a crowd of angry working class Parisians. He persuaded them to riot and to attack Paris’s most hated prison, the Bastille. Roused by Désmoulins’ words, they did just that the very next day, and so began the French Revolution.
Later our mp3cityguides Paris Romance and Revolution tour takes you to the Place Bastille where the notorious prison once stood. It was huge – a solid stone structure with eight towers, each nearly 100 metres high.
When it became a prison in the seventeenth century, the amount of discomfort you suffered as an inmate was largely down to your social status. If you were an aristocrat or a writer such as Voltaire who had a brief stay here, you could expect a room in one of the towers. The Marquis de Sade and the mysterious Man in the Iron Mask were also incarcerated here.
Unlike the Business Class prisoners up in their towers, the lower orders had to survive in the cellars amid rats, human bones and their own excrement. Hardly surprising then, that the Bastille became a focus for popular discontent.
On the morning of July 14th 1789, the day after Camille Démoulins had delivered his impassioned speech to angry Parisians in the gardens of the Palais-Royal a crowd arrived here in this square to demand that the prison be opened. It was already a warm, muggy day as two representatives were invited in by the authorities for talks.
But, by the afternoon, the crowd had become restless and they surged forwards, breaking into the main courtyard. Despite the arrival of reinforcements from the king, the hated Bastille fell and was quickly dismantled.
In fact, there were only seven prisoners in it at the time, most of them either petty criminals or madmen plus the dissolute son of a nobleman who was supposed to be learning a lesson in there. But the storming of the Bastille was more about political principle than practicalities and it went on to precipitate the French Revolution.

Vienna – style the centre of espionage as our Vienna mp3 tour tells you

simon — Sat, 10 Jul 2010 08:52:52 +0000

The recent spy scandal has plunged us back in to the Cold War, it sometimes seems. In particular the swap of spies between Russia and the US is reminiscent of the international tension that was present throughout so much of the sixties and seventies.
I was interested to note that the swap was made at Vienna airport. It’s not that Vienna airport is particularly nice, in fact it’s rather tacky and dull and anyone arriving for a Vienna city break would be advised to get through it as soon as possible and take the city train into town.
But as we explain in our Vienna audio tours, the city has long been a centre for espionage. Our mp3 tour of Imperial Vienna makes the point that because of its location the city has been used for negotiations – and spying – for both the West and the Soviet Bloc in the past. Orson Wells’ the Third Man brilliantly captures the mood of the fifties and sixties when spies set up in flats in the city and secret agents observed each other in Vienna’s grand cafes. Doing a Vienna city tour today you can still get a feel of that.
After the Nazis and the Austrians who ended up fighting for them were both defeated Soviet troops marched into Vienna to liberate it – raping and pillaging on the way. As politicians from the wining nations tried to decide what to do with Austria, post war, Vienna was divided up into five sections – one each for the Russians, the British, the Americans and the French plus an international zone. This awkward arrangement continued right up in 1955 until Austria was given its independence.
But even today, over half a century after this independence Vienna is still a centre of espionage – which is partly what makes it such a fascinating city break, as our Vienna mp3 tour shows.

Sagrada Familia Barcelona – are they really going to build a new railway line next to it?

simon — Wed, 30 Jun 2010 16:20:09 +0000

Sagrada Familia church, Barcelona

The Spanish transport authorities are moving ahead, it’s being reported, with their plans to build a new high speed train link very near the church of the Sagradia Familia. As we explain in our audio guide to Barcelona, this church will not be finished for another twenty years or so but it’s a remarkable piece of architecture.
In fact it’s a great attraction for anyone enjoying a Barcelona city break and users of the mp3cityguides Barcelona iPod tour clearly love it. George Orwell who was a regular visitor to Catalonia called it: “One of the most hideous buildings in the world.”
Although the final design was never agreed upon, the architect Antoni Gaudi, intended it to accommodate over 10,000 people, making it one of the biggest churches in the world. In fact, the idea behind it is very modest and simple. Despite its revolutionary design and its enormous size, the Sagrada Familia was never even meant to be the main, new cathedral of Barcelona.
Its proper name is the Temple of Atonement of the Sacred Family and it was commissioned by Josep Bocabella, a Barcelonese entrepreneur. A deeply religious man, he wanted to build a new church in Barcelona to atone for what he saw as the city’s wicked ways – its love of money and material things. Bocabella believed, like many Catholics towards the end of the nineteenth century, that a renewed devotion to the Holy Family was essential to make the world a better place – hence the name of the church, the Sagrada Familia or sacred family.
Originally the Sagrada Familia was intended to be a small church in the traditional Gothic style which would bring workers and bosses, Christians and sinners together to worship. But just a year into the project Bocabella fell out with his first architect and sacked him. In 1883 he appointed Antoni Gaudi – then just 31 years old and relatively unknown.
Gaudi was a deeply religious man himself and he wanted the church to be an important statement of faith. There are currently eight towers but Gaudi planned to build 18 of them – representing the 12 Apostles, the four writers of the gospels, the Virgin Mary and Christ himself.
This front entrance of the church with its simple lines and plain figures represents Christ’s passion. Despite its simplicity it’s still very moving – especially Judas’ kiss over to the left of the central doors. Further round is the glory side which Gaudi intended to be a representation of everything human and divine.
The opposite side of the church to where you are now which represents the Nativity is much more detailed and ornamental. You might want to pause your machine and go round and have a look at it if you haven’t already otherwise you can see it on the way out when you’ve visited the interior of the cathedral.
The Nativity side has three peaked arches signifying faith, hope and charity and there is a plethora of birds and flowers representing just some of God’s creations. The climax is the tree of life, surrounded by doves, the symbol of peace. The façade faces East to meet the dawn – a symbol of renewal and rebirth.
It was one of the few parts that Gaudi actually saw completed. As he became more absorbed – or obsessed, really – with his project, he refused to work on anything else. The budget for the church had been small and the money soon ran out. But Gaudi would not accept any payment. He lived and worked in a tent on the site and ate only what well wishers brought him. He lobbied and begged politicians for money and meanwhile public subscriptions continued to come in slowly.
It was originally planned to leave the building incomplete as a memorial to its creator but in the early 1950s work started again and interest in the Sagrada Familia was renewed.
Once again money is flowing into the project – perhaps because of the current interest in Catalan traditions. Although completion dates are forever being moved on, the latest is 2026 which would commemorate the anniversary of the death of Gaudi himself. Let’s just hope that they make it.

Is quality of tourism rather than quantity the way forward?

simon — Mon, 14 Jun 2010 19:28:19 +0000

Barcelona is to try and curb the drink culture of boozy Brits who spend a weekend in the city knocking back beers and falling around drunk. After all, if British visitors enjoying quiet Barcelona city breaks wanted to see that kind of behaviour, they could stay at home.
Whenever I’m doing a Barcelona city guide I’m afraid to say that I’m ashamed of some of my fellow countrymen who just seem to be using the occasion to drink as much as they can. After, the capital of Catalonia has so much more to offer from the Sagradia Familia church to the Barri Gotic and the hip Born district, all of which are covered on our Barcelona iPod tour.
But Barcelona isn’t the only place trying to bring about this change. Florence is also hoping to encourage quality rather than quantity when it comes to tourism. When I was there last week updating our Florence audio guide I was impressed with the city officials I met who want to make the city look smarter and persuade people to spend a bit longer there – and spend a bit more money.
Instead of just queuing to get into the Uffizi and buying an apron with David’s genitalia on it, tourists should spend a few days in the city, says its new mayor, and should see some of the other museums and sites that it has to offer. They should experience the new, innovative side of the city from its smart new restaurants and bars to the Palazzo Strozzi with its Contemporary art gallery and imaginatively staged shows of Renaissance art.
Will these brave cities actually succeed? I don’t know – but I hope so.

Cycling in London Will Be Great

simon — Mon, 24 May 2010 18:19:46 +0000

As a Londoner and a keen cyclist I’m delighted to see that Mayor of London is honouring his pledge to install bikes to hire in London. As we say at various points in our London Mp3 Tour, Britain’s capital is a wonderful city but some of its most famous streets such as Piccadilly and Regent Street are ruined by traffic. Fewer cars would be great. A guide to London include these cycle stands would be great. As I writer of city guides for mp3cityguides.com I think every city should have them.
Whenever I visit Paris to update our Paris city guide to great monuments or our Paris audio tour of romantic Paris I always love to hire velib, as the Paris bikes are called. They’re well placed around the city and once you’ve got the hang of how to hire one it’s not too difficult.
Well, once you’ve got the hang that is, the first time I tried I had to get two Parisians to help me – it’s not at all clear and, at one point, I thought I’d spent a fortune on my credit card trying to release the bike. Luckily I hadn’t but I can only hope that when Boris Johnson’s bikes finally go live in London they’ll be easier to use.
Last time I was in Paris redoing our Paris Mp3 Tour I hired a Velib. There’s nothing like cycling in a big city – I went from the Isle de la Cite right up to the Maris in a matter of minutes. As long as you’re not too frightened about those terrifying Parisian drivers it’s just the best way to get around.

Champs Elysées Get Green Makeover

simon — Sat, 22 May 2010 13:16:00 +0000

No Paris city break would be complete without a visit to the Champs Elysées. It might be one of the most famous streets in the world with one of the most famous sights at the end of it – I’m thinking of the Arc de Triomphe, of course. But, as we explain in our Paris Mp3 Tour, this great boulevard, which was first laid out by Catherine de Medici, is today full of deafening traffic, dreary international chain stores, gift shops and pick pockets.

As I say to anyone who is visiting Paris for the first time – have a look by all means but don’t expect much and don’t stop for a drink. If you want a great view of the Arc de Triomphe, there are other avenues leading off the Etoile to choose from. Our Paris audio guide gives the best bets.

But the noise and tourist schlock is about to be banished, at least temporarily, this weekend when the avenue of enchanted fields is turned into giant farmers market with fresh produce, greenery and shrubs. I one for one will be interested to see how successful it is and whether demand from tourists and Parisians will bring it back.

Cannes has its film festival but there’s more to holidays in the south of France

simon — Fri, 07 May 2010 08:24:28 +0000

The Cannes Film Festival is a celebration of glamour, celebrities and glitz – and the very worst of the south of France as far as many people are concerned. I have to say, I’ve never been invited myself but I do understand both the appeal of the year’s greatest movie shindig and the horror of its vulgarity.
Yes, the south of France is all about white Versace jeans, mahogany tans and gold jewellery (and that’s just the men) but it does have a wonderful historical dimension, as our Nice Mp3 tour explains.
Nice has a wonderful history dating back to ancient times and it was a base for negotiations between medieval kings and the Pope. I tell the full history in our Nice audio tour

Nice Mp3 Tour

There is also the ancient port and the old town around the Place Garibaldi – a reference to the time when Nice was Nizza and was actually Italian.
And, once you’ve done Nice you can always take a bus up to the small villages in the hills above the Cote d’Azur such as St Paul de Vence, Mougins and Grasse, the home of perfume. The other option is to take the train along to Menton, Monaco or…Cannes.

Removing those insane motorways around the Seine

simon — Tue, 20 Apr 2010 20:31:17 +0000

I was delighted to hear that the Mayor of Paris is considering replacing the busy roads that run along side the Seine with walkways. Walking by the river is one of my favourite things to do – and I’m not alone. Our Paris mp3 guides both lead people along by the river.

This is, after all, one of the most beautiful walks in the world and one of the most iconic city views. I loved writing our Paris Grand Monuments Mp3 tour which includes a wander along the Seine by the Assembly National and walking to the Isle Saint Louis in our Mp3 tour of Paris Romance and Revolution was great fun when I wrote that tour.

The motorways were built by President Georges Pompidou during the 1970s. Back then everyone loved cars and questions about congestion and CO emissions were never asked. “The French love their cars,” said Pompidou – and they still do. It’s just that cars ruin Paris. I can’t wait to be able to wander along by the beautiful Seine in peace and quiet.

Paris Mp3 tour

Le Fooding – how controvesial is that?

simon — Tue, 06 Apr 2010 08:38:08 +0000

It’s a wonderful piece of Franglais but Le Fooding is desperately serious. French haute cuisine (actually created by Catherine de Medici when she arrived in Paris to marry Francois II, as we explain in our Mp3 tour of Florence) is one of the things that the French are most proud of.
And yet…anyone who has tried to find a good bistro during a city break in Paris knows how difficult it can be to get good food. Of course, if you’ve got the money, the interest in food and the foresight to book months in advance you can eat some of the best food in the world in Michelin starred restaurants. We’ve included some good suggestions from our Paris city guide – see below.
Le Fooding is about breaking the rules of haute cuisine – fusion food, good quality fast food or new, young chefs are all part of the new food movement. One of the founders of this movement said: “French cuisine was caught in a museum culture.” Fighting talk but I for one wish them luck.
Here are some good places to eat in Paris from our Paris Printed Guide:

Restaurants in Central and the Marais:

Mon Vieil Ami Situated on the Isle Saint Louis, this cosy little restaurant offers an imaginative take on traditional bistro food. Open: Tuesday to Sunday lunch and dinner. Price: Moderate.
69 Rue St Louis en l’Ile. M: Pont Marie. T: + 33 (0) 1 40 46 01 35

Au Pied de Cochon Well known and loved restaurant with decidedly meaty menu and nice mix of locals and visitors. Open: Twenty four hours a day (really!). Price: Moderate.
6 Rue Coquilliere. M: Les Halles T: + 33 (0) 1 40 13 77 00

Le Repaire de Cartouche Unpretentious but popular restaurant specialising in food from
Normandy – so look out for apples, truffles, wild boar and Camembert amongst other things.
Open: Daily lunch and dinner. Price: Moderate.
8 Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire. M: Saint Sébastien-Frossart. T: + 33 (0) 1 47 00 25 86
e-mail

Restaurants in Northern Paris and Montmartre:

Casa Olympe This tiny restaurant (booking is essential) in Pigalle specialises in food from
Corsica so expect French cuisine with Italian and North African influences. Open: Monday to
Friday lunch and dinner. Price: Moderate.
48 Rue Saint Georges. M: Saint Georges. T: + 33 (0) 1 42 85 26 01

Astier A traditional, well loved Parisian eatery with classic dishes that has recently been revamped. Known for its cheeses. Open: Daily lunch and dinner. Price: Budget/Moderate.
44 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud. M: Parmentier/Oberkampf. T: 33 (0) 1 43 57 16 35

Restaurants around Charles de Gaulle and Etoile:

Spring One of the most remarkable restaurants in town. Daniel Rose came from Chicago to
Paris and is now chef and waiter at this tiny Michelin approved restaurant. There is one sitting, no
menu and room for just 16 customers but the food is sublime.
Open: Tuesday to Friday at 8pm. Price: Moderate
28 rue de la Tour d’Auvergne. M: Anvers/Cadet. T: + 33 (0)1 45 96 05 72
www.springparis.blogspot.com