Archive for April, 2010

Removing those insane motorways around the Seine

Tuesday, April 20th, 2010

I was delighted to hear that the Mayor of Paris is considering replacing the busy roads that run along side the Seine with walkways. Walking by the river is one of my favourite things to do – and I’m not alone. Our Paris mp3 guides both lead people along by the river.

This is, after all, one of the most beautiful walks in the world and one of the most iconic city views. I loved writing our Paris Grand Monuments Mp3 tour which includes a wander along the Seine by the Assembly National and walking to the Isle Saint Louis in our Mp3 tour of Paris Romance and Revolution was great fun when I wrote that tour.

The motorways were built by President Georges Pompidou during the 1970s. Back then everyone loved cars and questions about congestion and CO emissions were never asked. “The French love their cars,” said Pompidou – and they still do. It’s just that cars ruin Paris. I can’t wait to be able to wander along by the beautiful Seine in peace and quiet.

Paris Mp3 tour

Paris Mp3 tour

Le Fooding – how controvesial is that?

Tuesday, April 6th, 2010

It’s a wonderful piece of Franglais but Le Fooding is desperately serious. French haute cuisine (actually created by Catherine de Medici when she arrived in Paris to marry Francois II, as we explain in our Mp3 tour of Florence) is one of the things that the French are most proud of.
And yet…anyone who has tried to find a good bistro during a city break in Paris knows how difficult it can be to get good food. Of course, if you’ve got the money, the interest in food and the foresight to book months in advance you can eat some of the best food in the world in Michelin starred restaurants. We’ve included some good suggestions from our Paris city guide – see below.
Le Fooding is about breaking the rules of haute cuisine – fusion food, good quality fast food or new, young chefs are all part of the new food movement. One of the founders of this movement said: “French cuisine was caught in a museum culture.” Fighting talk but I for one wish them luck.
Here are some good places to eat in Paris from our Paris Printed Guide:

Restaurants in Central and the Marais:

Mon Vieil Ami Situated on the Isle Saint Louis, this cosy little restaurant offers an imaginative take on traditional bistro food. Open: Tuesday to Sunday lunch and dinner. Price: Moderate.
69 Rue St Louis en l’Ile. M: Pont Marie. T: + 33 (0) 1 40 46 01 35

Au Pied de Cochon Well known and loved restaurant with decidedly meaty menu and nice mix of locals and visitors. Open: Twenty four hours a day (really!). Price: Moderate.
6 Rue Coquilliere. M: Les Halles T: + 33 (0) 1 40 13 77 00

Le Repaire de Cartouche Unpretentious but popular restaurant specialising in food from
Normandy – so look out for apples, truffles, wild boar and Camembert amongst other things.
Open: Daily lunch and dinner. Price: Moderate.
8 Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire. M: Saint Sébastien-Frossart. T: + 33 (0) 1 47 00 25 86
e-mail

Restaurants in Northern Paris and Montmartre:

Casa Olympe This tiny restaurant (booking is essential) in Pigalle specialises in food from
Corsica so expect French cuisine with Italian and North African influences. Open: Monday to
Friday lunch and dinner. Price: Moderate.
48 Rue Saint Georges. M: Saint Georges. T: + 33 (0) 1 42 85 26 01

Astier A traditional, well loved Parisian eatery with classic dishes that has recently been revamped. Known for its cheeses. Open: Daily lunch and dinner. Price: Budget/Moderate.
44 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud. M: Parmentier/Oberkampf. T: 33 (0) 1 43 57 16 35

Restaurants around Charles de Gaulle and Etoile:

Spring One of the most remarkable restaurants in town. Daniel Rose came from Chicago to
Paris and is now chef and waiter at this tiny Michelin approved restaurant. There is one sitting, no
menu and room for just 16 customers but the food is sublime.
Open: Tuesday to Friday at 8pm. Price: Moderate
28 rue de la Tour d’Auvergne. M: Anvers/Cadet. T: + 33 (0)1 45 96 05 72
www.springparis.blogspot.com

How To Do A Museum Quickly

Friday, April 2nd, 2010

We’ve all that experience when taking a city break – so much to see and so little time.  There’s an amazing museum or art gallery on your agenda but somehow you’ve only got an hour to see it – how to handle it.  Writing city guides as I do, I’ve found myself in this situation regularly.  I once did Stockholm’s royal palace in about 35 minutes – I’m ashamed to say!

Today’s Times newspaper has advice on what to see in a rapid rush around a number of British museums.  Neil MacGregor, the excellent director of the British Museum, for instance, recommends starting in room 2 where you can find the oldest man-made objects in the collection, chopping tools from the Olduvai Gorge in Tanzania, in Room 2, some of the first things that humans ever consciously made.  He then recommends you head for Oceania and the Wellcome Trust Gallery (Room 24).  After that it’s over to Asia and the stunning figure of the Buddhist goddess Tara from 8th-century Sri Lanka. Tara represents the spirit of generous compassion, and the sculpture is an amazing example of figural bronze casting that takes us into a world where faith and bodily beauty merge.

After the mummy galleries,  MacGregor suggests you finish in Europe with a stroll through the Greek and Roman galleries, pausing to take in the Roman silver Warren Cup from the 1st century and the famous Portland Vase.

My only suggestion would be to check out the covered courtyard which is quite a spectacular piece of architecture.

At the Tate Modern which we cover in our tour of the ancient City of London, The Tower of London and St Paul’s Cathedral tour, The Times recommends you do Matisse’s L’Escargot, the surrealist collection the installation by Joseph Beuys before heading upstairs to the café for a cup of tea and view of St Paul’s.  I’d add to that, if you have time, spending a few moments looking at the new installation in the vast turbine hall.

At Liverpool’s Walker Art Gallery actress Alison Steadman recommends When Did you Last See your Father, perhaps the gallery’s most famous work and a vast canvass called Samson.

With smaller museums which still have great collections such as The National Gallery of Scotland which we cover in our Edinburgh audio guide

Generally, my advice would be to pick a couple of rooms – especially ones with works from a particular time of a genre to give your visit some coherence and shape.  Sprinting through a museum or art gallery allows you to see that you’ve done it – but focussing is best.