Sagrada Familia church, Barcelona
The Spanish transport authorities are moving ahead, it’s being reported, with their plans to build a new high speed train link very near the church of the Sagradia Familia. As we explain in our audio guide to Barcelona, this church will not be finished for another twenty years or so but it’s a remarkable piece of architecture.
In fact it’s a great attraction for anyone enjoying a Barcelona city break and users of the mp3cityguides Barcelona iPod tour clearly love it. George Orwell who was a regular visitor to Catalonia called it: “One of the most hideous buildings in the world.”
Although the final design was never agreed upon, the architect Antoni Gaudi, intended it to accommodate over 10,000 people, making it one of the biggest churches in the world. In fact, the idea behind it is very modest and simple. Despite its revolutionary design and its enormous size, the Sagrada Familia was never even meant to be the main, new cathedral of Barcelona.
Its proper name is the Temple of Atonement of the Sacred Family and it was commissioned by Josep Bocabella, a Barcelonese entrepreneur. A deeply religious man, he wanted to build a new church in Barcelona to atone for what he saw as the city’s wicked ways – its love of money and material things. Bocabella believed, like many Catholics towards the end of the nineteenth century, that a renewed devotion to the Holy Family was essential to make the world a better place – hence the name of the church, the Sagrada Familia or sacred family.
Originally the Sagrada Familia was intended to be a small church in the traditional Gothic style which would bring workers and bosses, Christians and sinners together to worship. But just a year into the project Bocabella fell out with his first architect and sacked him. In 1883 he appointed Antoni Gaudi – then just 31 years old and relatively unknown.
Gaudi was a deeply religious man himself and he wanted the church to be an important statement of faith. There are currently eight towers but Gaudi planned to build 18 of them – representing the 12 Apostles, the four writers of the gospels, the Virgin Mary and Christ himself.
This front entrance of the church with its simple lines and plain figures represents Christ’s passion. Despite its simplicity it’s still very moving – especially Judas’ kiss over to the left of the central doors. Further round is the glory side which Gaudi intended to be a representation of everything human and divine.
The opposite side of the church to where you are now which represents the Nativity is much more detailed and ornamental. You might want to pause your machine and go round and have a look at it if you haven’t already otherwise you can see it on the way out when you’ve visited the interior of the cathedral.
The Nativity side has three peaked arches signifying faith, hope and charity and there is a plethora of birds and flowers representing just some of God’s creations. The climax is the tree of life, surrounded by doves, the symbol of peace. The façade faces East to meet the dawn – a symbol of renewal and rebirth.
It was one of the few parts that Gaudi actually saw completed. As he became more absorbed – or obsessed, really – with his project, he refused to work on anything else. The budget for the church had been small and the money soon ran out. But Gaudi would not accept any payment. He lived and worked in a tent on the site and ate only what well wishers brought him. He lobbied and begged politicians for money and meanwhile public subscriptions continued to come in slowly.
It was originally planned to leave the building incomplete as a memorial to its creator but in the early 1950s work started again and interest in the Sagrada Familia was renewed.
Once again money is flowing into the project – perhaps because of the current interest in Catalan traditions. Although completion dates are forever being moved on, the latest is 2026 which would commemorate the anniversary of the death of Gaudi himself. Let’s just hope that they make it.