How To Do A Museum Quickly

April 2nd, 2010

We’ve all that experience when taking a city break – so much to see and so little time.  There’s an amazing museum or art gallery on your agenda but somehow you’ve only got an hour to see it – how to handle it.  Writing city guides as I do, I’ve found myself in this situation regularly.  I once did Stockholm’s royal palace in about 35 minutes – I’m ashamed to say!

Today’s Times newspaper has advice on what to see in a rapid rush around a number of British museums.  Neil MacGregor, the excellent director of the British Museum, for instance, recommends starting in room 2 where you can find the oldest man-made objects in the collection, chopping tools from the Olduvai Gorge in Tanzania, in Room 2, some of the first things that humans ever consciously made.  He then recommends you head for Oceania and the Wellcome Trust Gallery (Room 24).  After that it’s over to Asia and the stunning figure of the Buddhist goddess Tara from 8th-century Sri Lanka. Tara represents the spirit of generous compassion, and the sculpture is an amazing example of figural bronze casting that takes us into a world where faith and bodily beauty merge.

After the mummy galleries,  MacGregor suggests you finish in Europe with a stroll through the Greek and Roman galleries, pausing to take in the Roman silver Warren Cup from the 1st century and the famous Portland Vase.

My only suggestion would be to check out the covered courtyard which is quite a spectacular piece of architecture.

At the Tate Modern which we cover in our tour of the ancient City of London, The Tower of London and St Paul’s Cathedral tour, The Times recommends you do Matisse’s L’Escargot, the surrealist collection the installation by Joseph Beuys before heading upstairs to the café for a cup of tea and view of St Paul’s.  I’d add to that, if you have time, spending a few moments looking at the new installation in the vast turbine hall.

At Liverpool’s Walker Art Gallery actress Alison Steadman recommends When Did you Last See your Father, perhaps the gallery’s most famous work and a vast canvass called Samson.

With smaller museums which still have great collections such as The National Gallery of Scotland which we cover in our Edinburgh audio guide

Generally, my advice would be to pick a couple of rooms – especially ones with works from a particular time of a genre to give your visit some coherence and shape.  Sprinting through a museum or art gallery allows you to see that you’ve done it – but focussing is best.

Gustav Klimt – still making waves in Vienna

March 19th, 2010

Famous for his nudes, Gustav Klimt, was one of the most innovative and influential artists of his generation.  But he was also one of the most controversial, as we explain our mp3 tour of Vienna, and that controversy has been revived.

Klimt’s Beethoven frieze, at the Secession Building in Vienna, was painted at the start of the last century, in honour of the great composer and it caused huge offence with its images of naked bodies.

That outrage has been revived as real live naked bodies are encouraged to parade around the Secession building as part of new a celebration of the Beethoven frieze.

But, as our new guide to Vienna and its Imperial city explains the Secession was all about shock value.  At the end of nineteenth century, a group of artists and architects led by Klimt ’seceded’ from or left the main artistic grouping in Vienna.

I’m a particular fan of these young artists because of their courage and creativity.  They rejected the heavy ornamental style of the city’s great buildings such the Opera house.  Instead, they looked for something unashamedly modern with clean lines and minimal decoration.  In Britain and France the movement was called Art Nouveau and in Germany Jugendstil or ‘youth style.’

Gustav Klimt was commissioned to create a work of art for the university to celebrate Medicine – his mass of sickly, tangled bodies was not what the authorities had been expecting and he was attacked and vilified because of it.

The Secessionist movement might not have lasted long but it had a profound impact on art, architecture, furniture and industrial design and I love walking around Vienna to see it.  One of the most fascinating things about Vienna is the contrast between the heavy magnificent Imperial buildings and the light, elegant style of Jugendstil.

The Secession building with its understated decoration and strong, clean lines is typical of the Vienna Jugendstil look.  Where adornments were allowed they were simple, understated and set against plain walls.

In contrast to these stark, straight lines is the exuberant decoration on top.  It looks like a cabbage and that was how it was described by the Viennese when it first appeared.  In fact, it’s a huge globe of delicately intertwined laurel leaves.

The legend below it reads: “To every age its art, to art its freedom,” and next to the building is a statue of Mark Anthony.  It’s open from 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Saturday.

Parisians are rude – say Parisians

March 10th, 2010

Parisians are rude, unhelpful and unfriendly, according to – Parisians! Well, that’s the finding, anyway, of a recent survey by French magazine Marianne.
It certainly fits a stereotype, but is it true? Certainly, when I’ve been researching or updating a Paris mp3 tour, I’ve found them to be helpful and friendly. Of course, they can be a bit a brisk – as anyone can who lives in a big city. I’ve found this when I’ve been doing our Rome city guide or our guide to Berlin.
But perhaps Parisians suffer unduly because they are naturally chic, stylish and cool – all properties that can be associated with snootiness and a lack of natural friendliness. A friend of mine claims if you were run over in the Rue de Rivoli, for instance, Parisians would step over you, stopping only to comment on the fact that coat doesn’t match your shoes or that your shirt is so last season.
So, where are the friendliest places in the Paris? From my experience of writing more than one Paris walking tour, the parks are usually a good bet, especially the Jardins du Palais Royal or the gardens at the Palais de Luxembourg. Spend some time here, especially on a balmy afternoon in early Spring and the mood will be warm and relaxed as the weather.
The Rue de Rivoli, the Champs Elysées and the other main streets are naturally some of the most unfriendly as frenetic crows push past tourists and, talking of pushing past, no one can launch an attack to find to get a seat when boarding the Metro like a true Parisian, or Parisgo to give a certain type of Parisian.
But, the Boulevard Saint Germain and the student area are also places where, you’ll be able to prove the Marianne survey wrong by finding yourself amongst friendly Parisians.

What will happen to the Thyssen-Bornemisza collection

February 19th, 2010

What will happen to the Thyssen-Bornemisza collection? Based in Madrid, just opposite the Prado, it’s one of my favourite art galleries and I visit it whenever I’m updating our guide to Madrid.
The Thyssen-Bornemisza gallery is light, spacious and never too crowded and you can see a whole spectrum of art from early Renaissance to the twentieth century in a few hours, as we point out in Madrid mp3 tour. But now it looks as if a row between the Baroness, who still owns the paintings which have a value of about two billion dollars, and her son and heir will put the collection at peril.
The collection is on loan to the gallery and over the next year a decision will have to be made about whether that loan continues or whether the incredibly array of works of art go to a gallery abroad or are bought by the Spanish state. With the country in the grips of a deep recession and fears that it will default on loans this is hardly the time to go about spending huge amounts of money on art, many will say.
The collection of Baron Hans Heinrich Thyssen-Bornemisza includes over a thousand works of art and was acquired by the Spanish state in 1993, with the help, of the Baroness, a former Miss Spain. It’s lovely building – light and spacious – and the paintings are presented in chronological order from early Renaissance works by Duccio, to twentieth century artists such as David Hockney. You can get a complete history of western art in a couple of hours.
The Museo forms one corner of Madrid’s golden triangle of art galleries.

My top rooftop bars – a bar with a view

February 15th, 2010

Any good city break involves an evening spent in a bar overlooking the city you’ve been walking around during the day. When I’m writing my mp3 tours and my audio walking tours I’m also careful to include at least one rooftop bar.
So, here are my top ten rooftop bars:

1. The Rainbow Room, New York. This beautiful art deco bar at the top of the Rockefeller centre is a must for anyone looking the best bars in New York. I once saw Elizabeth Taylor here – she looked less than impressed to see me.
Rockefeller Plaza, www.rainbowroom.com.

2. Coq D’Argent, London. Near the Bank of England and the Royal Exchange this rooftop has elegant lawns and box hedges. The City isn’t great at night but this is one of the best places to have a drink and look at the new skyscrapers being built. For more information see our Guide to the City of London
No1. Poultry, www.coqdargent.co.uk

3. Rooftop Bar, Hotel Raphael, Rome. Just a martini cocktail’s throw from the lovely Piazza Nova, this elegant bar in one of Rome’s smartest hotels is mercifully free of the usual tourists. There are also views of the Vatican. For more about the Piazza Navona and Rome itself visit our Guide to Rome.
Largo Febo, 2 (Piazza Navona). www.raphaelhotel.com

4. Skyline, Hilton Molino Stucky, Venice. Venice is one of my favourite cities and I go whenever I can to update our Venice iPod tour. It’s not great for places with views from above but this bars lets you gaze down on the Guidecca Canal as far as Piazza San Marco and it’s where I first discovered the delights of a Negroni.
Giudecca 810, www.molinostuckyhilton.com/restaurants.php

5. La Terraza Del Urban, Hotel Urban, Madrid. Spain’s capital is one of the grandest cities in Europe, as we explain in our guide to Madrid. It’s also one of the coolest and, with its striking armchairs and sofas, lit by candlelight and its glittering swimming pool, this is one of the coolest bars in Madrid.
Carrera de San Jerónimo, 34, www. www.derbyhotels.com

The best time to see Venice

February 9th, 2010

I went to Venice again yesterday.  I’m a travel writer and I’ve written at least one guide to Venice.  I wanted to go at my favourite time of year to update our Venice audio guide.  In the summer it’s hot, sticky and crowded – well even MORE crowded – but in the winter it’s reasonably quiet and usually misty – the best time to use our mp3 Venice tour.

I woke up early – it was still dark as I was having a shower – but by the time I’d finished breakfast the winter sun was breaking through the clouds and mist was rolling off the canal in front of my hotel.  All you could hear was the rumble of the Vaporetti coming along side the jetties and tap of feet as early morning Venetian commuters shuffled forwards to find a place to sit or stand.

I’d really recommend my hotel by the way – the Santa Chiara in Santa Croce.  It’s good value, it’s quiet and clean and the staff are friendly and helpful.  It’s near the railway station and just by the Piazzale Romana so if you arrive by bus from either airport it’s very convenient too.  You can see the sign on the top of the hotel from the Piazzale Romana.

Having left the hotel, I started walking through the empty streets.  There was no about but the rubbish collectors, the delivery boys with their wheelbarrows – a few hungry cats.  Venice was silent and still and just coming to life.

My destination was the Piazza San Marco – I wanted to see it before the tourists arrived en masse for a piece I was writing.  In fact I got there at about 8.30am.  There was no else about except two Carabinieri and the guy who puts up the famous flags of the Republic every day.  I wonder what else he does for a living?  Does he just sit around at home and then come back in the evening?  Mist was rolling in from the lagoon and the first rays of the morning sunlight were just picking out the stunning gold of the Basilica.

I spent some time – ten minutes?  Half an hour?  Just looking at this gorgeous riot of colour and decoration.  Is it the most beautiful church on earth – or a bizarre mess of styles and overwrought detail?  I love the image above the right hand door which shows a man in a turban leaning away in horror from an open casket, holding his nose.

When I was hear a few years ago I overheard two girls talking about it and trying to work out from their guide book what it meant.  Being a helpful, knowledgeable travel writer (OK, a bit of a know-all – but only a bit, honest!) I explained the significance of this strange, almost comical scene.

St Mark was not the first patron saint of Venice. That honour fell to San Teodoro but as the city grew in wealth and importance during the ninth century it was decided that it should trade up in the saint stakes.  The official story was that Saint Mark had been sailing on a boat in the lagoon when an angel appeared to him and told him that Venice would be his resting place.

The real story, which the Venetians are not at all ashamed of, is that two merchants were sent to Alexandria in Egypt where Saint Mark was entombed.  They took the body – or its remains anyway – and brought it back to Venice where it lay in the first church which stood on this site on this site before being transferred to this Basilica.

It was said that the saint’s body was hidden under joints of pork so that the Alexandrians who were Muslim and regarded pig meat as unclean wouldn’t go near the contents of the basket.  The main who is holding his nose is obviously horrified at the idea of encountering this store of pork!

The two girls thanked me for me help. I’m still not sure that they really believed that such a beautiful, historic building could have such a bizarre, cartoon-like story so beautifully recreated on its grand façade – but it’s true!

On this particular morning I spent a few hours in St Mark’s Square before deciding to set off to my next stop.

what do to on the Sunday afternoon before you go home after a weekend break

January 31st, 2010

Although I love city breaks there is one aspect of them which has always presented me with a problem – it’s that last afternoon before you go back to the airport. Once you’ve ticked off most main attractions, with the clock ticking until your flight back, how do you make the most of those last few hours?
The Friday (assuming you’ve managed to take that much time off) is usually spent getting there and finding your bearings. You’ve got your city guide and you’re finding what is what and where it is. Hopefully, you’ve got an mp3cityguides audio guide to Rome, guide to Florence, guide to Berlin or guide to Paris which has helped you get orientated and get under the skin of the city much faster.
Either way, the first morning or afternoon of your city break usually has a sense of purpose. You’re also probably trying to switch off from work. Did I send that email? Have I got everything for that meeting next week? Oh, look there’s a nice café, shall we stop there? Was that report I finished at 10 O’clock last night OK?
After that – usually the Saturday – you get into your stride and you really begin to feel you’re on holiday. Museums, art galleries, churches, shops and beautiful squares manage to edge work out of your brain and your only concern is which restaurant to go tonight and whether to have an ice cream now or wait until later. (Sod it! Let’s do it now and later…)
You’ve usually got something planned for Sunday morning and then there’s the question of where to have lunch but already you’re counting back from your flight home’s departure time. You don’t want to be late but considering that you’ve looked forward to and saved up for this weekend, just killing time seems like a crime.
My advice is to decide even before you go on the one thing that you’re going to save for the Sunday afternoon. A small museum is a good idea.  People who use our Paris mp3 tour seem really like the Nissim de Camondo (63 Rue de Monceau, 8ieme) and the Cognacq-Jay (Hôtel Donon, 8 Rue Elzévir, 3ieme) are beautiful town houses that take about an hour to an hour and a half to cover. In Rome, as our guide to Rome will tell you, the Museum of the Baths (Via Viminale) has pieces from the great baths of Diocletian amongst others plus a pleasant garden. It’s just by the Termini station for trains back to Fiumicino Airport or a taxi or bus to Ciampino.
Strolling around and sitting quietly in a church is often a nice way to enjoy some calm before the stress of travel. The Church of Santa Maria Novella (Piazza Santa Maria Novella) as we do in our Florence audio tour is beautiful and it’s just five minutes away from the station where you can get trains to the Pisa Airport as well as buses and taxis. Around the corner is the Officina Profumo Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella (16 Via della Scala) which sells beautifully decorated fragrances and cosmetics – so much better than the overpriced tat you’ll find at the airport. It’s open until 6pm on Sundays.
Another option is to take a walk and get some fresh air. In Barcelona have lunch in Barceloneta or one of the restaurants by the Museu d’historia de Catalunya, the Museum of the Catalonia and then walk along the beach.
One final thought – if Sunday afternoon isn’t the end of your trip and you’re staying until Monday give even more thought to what you’ll do then. In many cities museums and galleries are closed on Mondays. So, be prepared!

Why is hotel room technology so complicated?

January 23rd, 2010

Am I getting old or is the technology in hotel rooms getting more complicated? I was staying in a five star hotel in Rome recently, researching a possible mp3 tour of the capital to add to our other Rome mp3 tour. Having walked around all day after dinner I fell into bed and reached up to switch off the light.
The overhead light near the bed duly went off – but the bedside lamp stayed on. Hardly able to keep my eyes open I pulled myself, inspected the light control panel, which had about a dozen buttons on it and tried to work out how to switch off the bedside lamps. I was conscious that writing a city audio tour is hard work and I needed to get some sleep.
I hit a couple of buttons and various lights around the room when on and off. But those bedside babies were still shining brightly – far too brightly. I tried a few more buttons on the panel and finally I managed to kill them. But the room was still not dark – a light from by the door had suddenly gone on for no reason.
By this time I’d forgotten which buttons I already tried and which I hadn’t so I hit a few at random. The bedside lamps came on – and went off again. At one point, a light above the desk when it shone down in an otherwise darkened room looked quite dramatic.
Eventually I decided that this was the least worst option, and donning the sleep mask from the aeroplane and finally nodded off.
Televisions are another case in point. I was rewriting our Paris audio guide to keep it up to date and staying in a nice hotel near the Gare du Nord. It’s not best place for a walking tour of Paris but it’s convenient, none the less, for the Eurostar. I must have pressed about 15 buttons during which time I saw my room bill, narrowly missed paying for an adult movie and watched a dreary Rome travelogue. Finally I got the telly to work. By this time I wasn’t that bothered about watching it any more and just wanted to find somewhere to eat.
After I’ve been doing other audio tours of Vienna and have come back exhausted and ready for a bath I’ve found that switching on the tap, getting the temperature right and not having the shower suddenly come on and drench you requires a degree in engineering.
So, my message to hotel room designers is – keep it simple stupid.

Writing city guides – fun or chore?

January 16th, 2010

Writing city guides must be such fun, people always say to me. You actually get paid for being on holiday.
Well, sort of. The fact is that when I’m putting together one of our mp3 tours of Rome, Venice, London or Paris, or any city, I have a pretty packed schedule. I’m usually out of the hotel by 9am and then it’s a case of getting to wherever the first stop is and walking through the route I’ve planned already. I won’t get back until 6pm or later.
The first thing I find is that the actual layout of the city is not much like the map. What looks like a square on paper is, in fact a street. It might appear that you turn left and walk a short distance to find the second stop on our city walking tour but in reality, when you hit the ground you realise that you need to go right and then left. I won’t bore you with the details but it’s amazing how streets and the maps that are supposed to describe them differ.
I then have to walk a section of the route of the city tour a few times to make sure that our directions are clear. I might also find that there’s a much prettier street to stroll along and so I’ll have to walk that route and then amend the script that I’ve written along with the map – usually leaning my papers against a wall or balancing them on my knee as I’m crouching down on the pavement. I found when doing our guide to Barcelona, for instance, that some of the streets in the Ribeira and Born districts plus the new Gaudi extension are much prettier than the ones on the route I’d planned and so I had to scribble these changes.
While doing this I usually find that I’ve become the object of interest or amusement for a few people – either locals wondering what this mad tourist is up to or tourists wondering whether this is some native custom or popular activity.
It’s amazing how awful the weather can be when you’re doing an mp3 tour – I’ve had down pours when doing our Rome guide and when I was writing our guide to Vienna it was so cold that I could hardly move my hands or hold the pen. In Amsterdam it suddenly got so windy that papers and notes were flying out of my hands across Dam Square and while doing our Edinburgh city tour I felt plain ill for some reason.
Taking photographs, which I do for our city guides to show people what we’re talking about and what they should be looking at is also a hazard. I happened to be walking through our mp3 tour of London including St Paul’s and the Bank the day before anti-capitalist demonstrations were due to take place. The policemen who stopped and questioned me, complete with cameras on their helmets were all very nice. “A downloadable walking tour for my iPod,” said one. “What a good idea. Now, just keeping moving, eh?”
In Barcelona I was stopped while making notes about and taking photos of building that turned out to be a police station. Goodness knows what will happen when I do our walking tour of Moscow and St Petersburg.
So, are people right? Is it fun? Well, despite the weather, the police and the scribbled rewrites, the answer is yes, writing audio city guides is great fun.

Squatters with the best view in Paris

January 8th, 2010

I was amazed to read that a bunch of squatters have moved into a house in the Place des Vosges in Paris. Amazed and very jealous, because this is one of my favourite squares in Paris – as we make clear in our mp3 tour of Paris. Our guide to Paris, Romance and Revolution features it along the route and there is quite a bit of both romance and revolution in the decision by 33 squatters, including a lawyer, a pianist and an architect to take over a house in what is surely the most beautiful and tranquil square in Paris.
Dominique Strauss Khan, head of the International Monetary Fund is a resident of the Place des Vosges but we don’t know what he thinks about his new neighbours.
Walking through the square in an early spring afternoon you’ll find mothers and toddlers playing the gardens in the middle and people strolling past the antique shops under the colonnades or doing what Parisians do best – sitting at cafes and gossiping or contemplating life.
There had been a royal palace on the site of Place des Vosges, called the Palais de Tournelles since the early middle ages. This was where Catherine de’ Medici lived and where her husband, Henry II, was killed in a jousting tournament. Overcome with grief, and unwilling to carry on living in the home she had shared with Henry, Catherine moved out of the Palais de Tournelles and into the Louvre.
Tournelles was later knocked down and this square was laid out on the site in the early seventeenth century. Soon, wealthy Parisians began to move in – and this was when the surrounding Marais district started to become very sought after. This square was known as the Place Royale until the Revolution after which it became the Place des Vosges.
It was King Henri IV who initiated the building of this square but it was his successor Louis XIII who finished the project and you can see his statute in the middle here. Needless to say, the original was destroyed during the Revolution and this version dates from the early nineteenth century.
The Place des Vosges is probably the first example of a properly planned residential square with uniform houses and a coherent design. The great squares in London, Madrid and many Italian cities followed this ideal. There are either 36 or 39 houses here, depending on who you ask, each with matching red brick and stone facades and dark grey slate sloping roofs. The arcades underneath the houses are also unusual in Paris and, along them you’ll find the occasional restaurant and café, gallery and antique shop.
On northern edge of the square is the Queen’s pavilion and opposite it, on the southern side, the King’s pavilion rises above the other houses. The square’s trees and fountains were added during the eighteenth century.
As well as its aristocratic residents, the Place des Vosges has literary associations. The great letter writer Madame de Sevigné was born here and Victor Hugo, author of Les Miserables and the Hunchback of Notre Dame also lived here. His home is now a museum devoted to his life and work and you can find it at number 6, which is in the corner to the left of the King’s pavilion.